Unfortunately, shoe soles sometimes crack. As a rule, the linings installed on the crack do not give the desired result - the shoes continue to get wet, and the “patch” quickly falls off. How to repair a cracked sole?
It is necessary
- - acetone or gasoline;
- - sandpaper
- - bicycle camera;
- - rubber glue;
- - boot knife;
- - soldering iron;
- - nylon.
Gently remove dust and dirt from the sole. Sand the inside of the crack thoroughly with sandpaper. Wipe with acetone or gasoline to degrease.
Cut the edges of the sole around the crack 5-7 mm wide using a boot knife. The cutting depth should be one millimeter.
Measure carefully the depth of the crack in millimeters. Add 15 mm to this value. Take an old bicycle tube and cut a strip out of it to match your desired width.
Sand the strip off with sandpaper. Degrease with gasoline or acetone. Apply rubber glue on both sides of the strip. In this case, on the one hand, the glue must cover the entire surface completely, and on the other, dry edges must be left. The width of these edges should be 5-7 mm.
Take a shoe in need of repair and bend it in such a way that the crack in the sole opens up as much as possible. Gently apply the glue to the damaged area and let it dry for 10-15 minutes. In this case, you should not close the crack.
Take a strip of rubber and fold it in half. Gently tuck into the cracked sole and straighten the shoe. Press firmly the edges of the strip protruding from the crack against the sole. Place your shoes under load for 24 hours.
Shoes repaired in this way will serve you for a long time.
You can fill the burst sole with melted nylon. Dry, sand and degrease the crack. Preheat the soldering iron and run it along the inner surface of the damage. This will cause the leather or rubber from which the sole is made to bubble and become sticky. Take a small piece of nylon, attach it to the crack and press down with a soldering iron. Rub the melted nylon into the damaged area. Repeat this procedure until the crack has completely disappeared. It should be noted that it is necessary to straighten the molten nylon not with the hot tip of the soldering iron, but with its handle.